5% Rabatt auf alle Produkte mit Rabattcode "rabatt"
Wir verwenden Cookies, um Ihnen besser behilflich zu sein - Weiterlesen
Versand in über 180 Länder
Online seit 2010
100% Zufriedenheitsgarantie
Xray X12 2016 Build pt.1
1/12 sized cars has gained a lot of interest recently. The biggest reason being introduction of GT-12 class with bodys that resemble more of a real car instead of a giant wing.
I have built
quite a few new cars during the last two years including X1 2015 Formula
car and now it's time to build Xray X12 2016 for the GT-12 class.
Xray
X12 comes in a really nice looking box with a lot of achievements from
past race wins and also a nice picture of the actual car. X12 2016 was
designed with Team Driver Alexander Hagberg who actually won the 2016
European Championship with this car.
Xray
does include a real good manual inside the box. There are quite a few
nice tips and tricks included in the manual and I really like that. Most
of the parts are in separate plastic bags and one bag has all the parts
for one segment of the car. Like front suspension of rear axle.
The
build starts with sanding the edges of the carbon fibre chassis and
then applying some CA glue. I used earpick to spread the glue. This
should increase the durability and it's a lot nicer to handle the
chassis as the sides will be smoother.
Next
up is the front suspension of the car. The build is really
straightforward just be sure to check the proper pivot balls to be
inserted as there are two metal ones and two made out of composite
material.
The
manual has a kit setup and I will be using that as a starting point. Ride
height will be affected by the tire diameter so that has to be checked
once the car is finished and tires attached so I will be using the
proposed shims for now.
All
the parts have really nice build quality and no extra sanding, reaming
of dremeling was necessary. Just be sure to check that everything moves
freely.
Next up is the read pod. I did sand and apply CA glue to the carbon fibre plate similar to the main chassis.
The
manual does not indicate that you should use thread lock to the motor
mounts. I have found out in my formula these can get loose so this time I
did apply small amount of medium strength thread lock.
Take
your time when attaching the top plate of the center pivot ball. It
needs to be securely attached but also without any binding.
After
that you will be able to attach the side links and continue to building
the side shocks. I used the provided 3000cst oil in the side shocks as a
starting point and they feel really smooth.
The
shock mount also provides side springs mounting. This is will be one of
the most important adjustment of the car - ideally the side springs
should have zero gap to the main chassis but still no preload. You will
have to adjust the side springs when the car is finished to get the
tweak just right.
My favourite feature of the car is the way you adjust rear axle height. Normal pan cars use plastic oval parts and with foam tires you will need to take out the rear axle every time you make a change. But not with Xray X12. There is clever shims that you change and no need to take out the wheels or rear axle. Also the adjustment will be more precise with thin shims.
I used Avid bearing oil for the bearings. It really makes a difference how the bearings rotate.
Buiding
the diff is really easy. I used the included hudy diff lube for the
diff balls. Just make sure you do not over tighten the nut - the final
adjustment is done when wheels are in place and you are ready to hit the
track.
For
the center shock I used
Team Associated green slime in the o-rings. It
seems to be the way most races build their shocks and I'm not going to
be any different. It should seal the o-rings even better and also give
nice free movement of the shock rod. I used the longer version of the
shock as it's the initial setting for the car.
For
some reason the instructions tells you to build the servo saver so,
that you should put the metal springs into the smaller part of the servo
saver. Not great as it will be quite hard to put the servo saver
together. Instead put the metal springs to the bigger part and it's
super easy to put those parts together.
Again I used some blue thread lock in the servo mount aluminium poles as those might get loose after some time.
The last part of the build is the steering rods. Not issues here.
The
mechanical part of the build is done and the car looks awesome. Next
part will be about installing the electronics to this car and painting
the body.
And here is the unboxing of the kit. Finnish audio only.
Build by Aapo "Ruusperi" Koro
Über uns
News
Kontaktieren Sie uns
EuroRC Oy
Päiviöntie 8
12400 Tervakoski
044-3397420
[email protected]
www.eurorc.com
FI23527868
Zahlungsarten
